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The view from the top |
What November means to me: turkey (of course), warm days and cool nights (usually), northern wave swells and a cooling ocean (freezing already), the end of pelagic fishing (it never really started this year), and an annual trip to the Havasupai Reservation in the bottom of the Grand Canyon. VCF (Veterinary Christian Foundation) led by Dr. Rick Marshall has been providing annual veterinary services to the Supai Tribe for 27 years. Traditionally, we travel to Peach Springs, Arizona, on the Saturday before Thanksgiving and overnight at the Hualapai Lodge on Route 66. Sunday morning finds us motoring to Hilltop, 60 miles to the north, readying ourselves for the eight mile, 2000 foot drop from the Canyon rim. Monday and Tuesday are work days and Wednesday, the day before Thanksgiving, we helicopter out so all can be home for the holiday. This year we flew out in a snow storm.
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Supai |
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The valley floor |
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The mailman is packed and leaving for Hilltop |
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Packing his own feed |
Supai, Arizona, is the only town in America still served by the US Postal service on horseback. There are no roads. There are no cars or trucks. One walks or rides on horseback or takes the helicopter (when it is running) to get down. Once in Supai, one walks or rides on horseback. A few have a golf cart. There are several tractors and back-hoes for maintenance of the trails and paths and campgrounds at the magnificent Falls. The first of three, Navajo Falls, is located about 1.5 miles further down the Canyon from Supai. The majority of the commerce is based on horse transportation of goods, services, and tourists. All the horse feed (bags of pellets) is imported into the canyon on horseback. The pack trains haul the majority of the Tribal needs down the hill daily with the helicopter supplying the rest on the two days it routinely flies.
The Havasupai people have inhabited this spot for the last 800 years and until the reservation system was forced upon them. Traditionally, Winters were spent on the plains above the canyon where they hunted wildlife, gathered pine nuts and traded with other Tribes. In the Spring, they returned to the Canyon, living in the cracks of the walls and farmed the small river valley. They have never been known to be a militant people but rather shy.
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Dr. Chandler always enjoys his work in Supai. |
My first trip was in 1994 along with my wife of three weeks, Rhonda. That experience has had a prolonged and profound impact on my family. All of our kids (3) have made multiple trips with us since and I have had the pleasure of both Dr. Chandler's and Dr. Oman's company on trips as well. I've met dozens of dedicated people willing to donate their time, expertise, and resources to the Supai community for nothing more than the satisfaction of "loving thy neighbor as you love yourself".
This past November, there were 34 in the VCF group: 10 veterinarians, 4 junior veterinary students, several medical technicians, a couple of contractors, family members, a fireman, and the remainder were from various churches from California and Nevada. After arriving in Supai on Sunday afternoon, we participated in a huge turkey dinner for the community in the church where over 100 people were served. There are approximately 600 inhabitants. Several hundred live outside the reservation in Phoenix, Flagstaff, Kingman etc. Those people always miss their home in the Canyon.
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Havasupai Bible Church (and Veterinary Clinic) |
For two days, the veterinarians provide their services. Neutering (spays and castrations) dogs and cats is paramount for animal population control. All that are brought to the church based improvised veterinary clinic are vaccinated and wormed and health issues are attended to. Rabies is a problem for the community so it is essential the dogs and horses receive rabies vaccinations. Last year, one of our veterinarians ended up having to take the rabies prophylaxis treatment when he was bitten and the dog died later the next day! On the large animal side, we vaccinated (West Nile, 5 way, and Rabies) and wormed about 250 horses/mules; a small number since many animals were turned out on the new grass above the Canyon. Dr. White, from northern California, floated teeth and used the opportunity to teach the vet students proper dentistry. I castrated horses and performed other surgeries deemed necessary while students and "horse people" did the vaccinations and wormings. All in all, the process becomes an efficient machine after the first few hours of "cluster". The rest of the VCF group have their own activities: construction, children's outreach, women's outreach, and making acquaintances providing encouragement and prayer when asked.
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Small animal surgery recovery room |
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Pack horses on the way down. |
Over the last two years, the Supai village has been the victim of flooding. Rain falling miles away washed down the Canyon floor, through the lower extent of the village and over the Falls into the campground. They have been economically devastated as a result. The campground is closed and once again they are attempting to resurrect it so tourism can return. The village of Supai is closed to outsiders at this time. The Lodge and the restaurant closed down. More jobs lost. Packers have no work without tourists (normally 60K people a year) and commerce.
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The Havasupai Lodge at the bottom |
I'm not asking for anything from you, our cherished clients. I wanted you to know about the Havasupai people and the efforts made to serve them. If you have interest, you should plan on visiting Supai this Summer. You can trailer your horses to hilltop, ride down to the campground and spend some relaxing time with your family and friends. The packers will deliver pellets to you and there is water everywhere (the river). Otherwise,you could walk down and stay in the Lodge and take day hikes to the Falls, explore the old living quarters in the cracks of the walls and there are wall paintings from the "Old Ones" to explore. But, I will warn you, it is as close to third world as you can get in the continental US. You won't be pampered but you will be contributing to a society that needs your visit and consumerism.
I am certainly happy to answer any questions. Try "Google-ing" Havasupai Tribe. There is quite a bit of information available. Greg Smith, DVM
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Narrow path, tall walls |
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Sunday night after the community dinner |
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Nice elk rack |
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On the top of Navajo Falls |
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Dr's Cuadras, Smith, and Oman on the chopper out |